Foreword:

When installing a body lift, it is strongly recommended that you replace the rubber body mounts with aftermarket polyurethane bushings. On a stockvehicle, when a 2" lift is being installed, a steering extension may not be needed; others will require it. Mitsubishi transmissions (FM 145, and FM 146) will not need any modifications for the shifter; Mazda transmissions will need an extension to be purchased. The fan shroud will need to be removed and modified. The parking brake cable under the driver’s side floorboard may get stretched, so a relocation of its bracket may be necessary. All other stock parts should accept the 2 and 3" lifts.

There are 10 mounts in total (5 per side). The front 2 beside the radiator support, the next two under the front floor boards, the next pair under the rear passenger’s floor board, and the remaining four are accessed by removing the gas tank. All stock mounts are held with a nut and bolt, and the top and bottom mounts are pressed together, except for the front two. The front mounts have an inverted nut and bolt, and are threaded together, rather than pressed together.

When doing this procedure, the most time consuming part is removing the old mounts. The easiest way to do so is to break the bolt by loosening/tightening the bolt head with a cheater bar until the bolt snaps, and falls through, than the mount can be cut at the bottom side of the upper bushing with a reciprocating saw (this is essentially the easiest method, and will work even if the bolts will not come out).

Before starting, take proper safety precautions. Block the wheels. When jacking the body, always use a piece of wood between the jack and the body to prevent damage. Disconnect the battery (-) terminal. When raising the body keep a close eye on anything that could be stretched.

Procedure:

1. Locating all the bolts.

The front bolts are to the sides of the radiator mounts (see photo 2). Nothing has to be removed for their access. Removing the seats most easily accesses the 4 bolts below the floorboards. 4 bolts attach each seat. The seat belt buckle will have to slide off of its track in order to fully remove the seat (and don’t forget the buzzer electrical connection on the driver’s side). Now remove the doorsill plates, and the front kick panels. Lifting the carpet up will reveal two oval shaped covers on each side, which are held in place with 2 screws (see photo 1). Removal of these exposes the body mounts bolt heads. Access of the nuts is easy; however, on the driver’s side, partial removal of the parking brake cable may be necessary (see photo 6).

Removing the lift gate sill plate can access the rear bolts, and lifting up the cargo area’s carpet. This exposes 2 bolt heads at the rear, and 2 rectangular covers towards the front. The nuts for these bolts require the removal of the gas tank.

The gas tank skid plate bolts are accessed by removing the plastic trim that sits at the top of the bumper. The rear bolts for the skid plate are located through access holes in the bottom of the bumper, and the nuts from the newly exposed area above. The front two bolts and nuts are located above and behind the pumpkin. Unscrew the three bolts holding the gas tank filler neck to the body, and remove the gas cap. Now the gas tank can be supported with a jack and piece of wood. Remove the two bolts securing the tank’s straps (located near the front bolts for the skid plate). The tank should be lowered just enough to remove the connections (fuel lines, electrical, and vent line). Then the tank can be gently lowered and removed. Now the 4 nuts and body mounts are exposed (see photo 4).

2. Removal of the bolts.

Using a large breaker bar, and a wrench on the bolts, try to snap the bolts off, otherwise remove the nuts with the cheater bar or impact gun. If a bolt will not snap, or come loose, leave it at this point; however, breaking the bolt is the best method. Once all the bolts are removed, place them back in their holes, to keep the body aligned on the frame. Remember that the stock upper and lower mounts are joined together (see photo 5).

3. Preparing For Lift.

Have all proper parts neatly laid out, and ensure you are using new nuts, bolts and washers. Undo the two bolts on top of the fan shroud, and pop the shroud out of place. On the steering shaft under the hood, loosen the bolt the attached the upper and lower shafts. It is highly recommended that the parking brake cable be disconnected on the driver’s side to prevent over stretching (see photo 6).

4. Installing mounts, and lifts.

Working on one side of the vehicle at a time only, jack up the body enough so that the new mounts and lift can be put in place. Remove the bolts for the mounts you are working on. Remove the old mounts by cutting through the bottom side of the upper mount with the reciprocating saw, unless the old mounts came apart when breaking the nuts off. Note that the front pair of mounts may be easier to remove by unscrewing one from the other. Now put the proper body mounts, lift, bolt, and washers in place, but do not add the nut. Continue with all mounts on the truck. Now that everything is in place, double check the alignment of the body on the frame by measuring any reference points. Once satisfied, the nuts can be installed, and tightened. Tighten until the upper body mount just starts to get squished (or to a torque spec provided). Don’t forget to us loctite on the nuts.

5. Finish Steps.

Installation of all items is the reverse of removal, with the exception of the following procedures:

i.	Install steering extension if there is not enough play on the stock steering shaft by gently forcing the extension up the trucks steering shaft, and bolting back in place (photos 8, 9, 10).
ii.	Reinstall parking brake cable. If it binds due to the angle, grind off the parking brake bracket (below the drivers door) and reinstall 1" higher on the frame.
iii.	The lift gate sill plate will not go back into place, and a new piece will have to be made to fix the gap (photo 11). Or the Bumper can be removed, and repositioned 2-2 ½" up the frame, while reusing the stock sill plate.

Conclusion:

After the vehicle has been finished, double check for anything else that may be stretched. Check for binding in the steering shaft, and check the operation of the parking brake. Drive the vehicle for 500km (250-300 miles) and note any problems or clunks; retighten the mounts if necessary.